Summer in Japan, especially August, is hot and humid. Even here in the northern prefectures, famous for snow in the winter, it gets hot at times. Although I generally advise against visiting Japan in August, there is one thing in Japan that can usually only be experienced in and around August – summer festivals!
In the Tohoku region, the first ten or so days of August are especially lively with festivals. This year, I visited the Kanto Matsuri festival in Akita City for the first time. The festival takes place every year on August 3-7, in order to pray for a good harvest. At the festival, roughly 280 bamboo poles, some up to 12 meters long and weighing 50 kilos, are adorned with 24 or 46 lanterns and are carried by groups of men called Sashite through the streets.
The Sashite balance the poles on their palms and push them up over their heads, which requires quite a bit of strength, as it is done with only one hand. Then they transfer the pole to their shoulders, foreheads, and those with the most skill even transfer the pole to their lower backs. This final one, while being extremely difficult to perform, looks slightly comical, as the Sashite needs to thrust out his rear in order to have a surface to balance the pole on.
The display is accompanied by furious taiko drums and flutes, creating a great spectacle while the onlookers clap and shout “Dokkoisho, dokkoisho!” (Roughly translating to “Heave-ho, heave-ho!”). As the Sashite balance the poles, more sections are added to the poles from beneath, making them even longer and heavier. When the poles get to a certain length, they start bending, making the many lanterns (lit with candles, mind you) look like ears of rice, steadily ripening and growing heavier. Even children participate, balancing smaller lantern poles as best as they can.
I visited the Akita City Folk Arts Center (often called Neburinagashi-kan), where I learned that there are 4 types of poles: For elementary school children in the third grade and below, the pole is 5 meters, weighs 5 kilos, and has 24 smaller lanterns. For elementary school children grade four and up, the pole is 7 meters, weighs 15 kilos, and has 24 medium size lanterns. The second largest is for junior high school students and measures 9 meters, weighs 30 kilos, and has 46 medium size lanterns. Finally, the adult size is a whopping 12 meters, 50 kilos, and has 46 full size lanterns. Visitors to the museum can try balancing the lighter poles while a Sashite gives them instructions, and it is also possible to try one’s hands at playing one of the huge taiko drums used for the festival. When I went, I had the chance to try the smallest pole (5 meters, 5 kilos) and it left me very impressed with the children who balance the poles at the festival.
Kanto Matsuri is a very lively and fun event to witness, and it can easily be paired with visiting the Tenku-no-Fuyajou festival of Noshiro (also in Akita), Nebuta Matsuri festival in Aomori, and Sansa Odori festival in Morioka.
As with most other festivals in Japan, there are options to get special reserved seats, but it really isn’t necessary. If you can manage to be at the street where they will be carrying the lanterns roughly 30-60 minutes before the event starts, you should be able to find seating on the side of the road. However, because the event is held in August and starts just after sunset, it can be a rather hot affair to sit there and wait in the sun, so bringing a sun umbrella, a towel, or just a great, big hat, is the only sane way to go.
If one is not scared of the summer heat, there is also a daytime performance. However, this performance is a skills competition, where the various Kanto teams can display their proficiency at both pole balancing and music, as well as solo performances often carried out in inventive costumes.
Of the big summer festivals that take place in the capitals of the Tohoku prefectures, Kanto Matsuri generally has lower attendance numbers than for instance the Nebuta Matsuri. This is mainly because it is in Akita, which on average doesn’t see that many tourists. Being Japan, this still means that there will be crowds, but it is not as claustrophobic as Nebuta Matsuri.
Having visited most of the big summer festivals in Japan, I can honestly say that this is one of my absolute favorites. Definitely worth a visit!
Official Kanto Matsuri website: https://www.kantou.gr.jp/english/